Toyota Solid Axle Swap Conversion Instructions by James and Justin
Start off by pressure washing or cleaning your vehicle of debris.
Use a plumb bob to find center of axle location front and rear if you are unfamiliar with where your axle is going to be after modifications. (do this before lifting vehicle, while all 4 tires are on the ground.)
Put vehicle on lift, or use jackstands to secure vehicle in the air so you can work on it safely.
Disconnect negative side of battery before starting any work on your vehicle.
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Remove both front tires, disconnect brake lines, disconnect front idler arm bracket off passenger side frame, disconnect steering off of pitman arm, remove skid plate, and remove both shocks.
Disconnect front driveline, remove swaybar mounting bolts to the frame, remove torsion bars and upper control arm bolts.
Disconnect the two housing mounting bolts.
Using a plasma cutter or torch, carefully cut the 4 main brackets off the frame.
Cut as little off as needed, and remove the rest later when you are cleaning up the frame.
Remove front end assembly from vehicle.
Carefully finish removing brackets from the frame, and sand frame smooth trying not to take out too much of the material from the frame.
Make a nice cut out of your motor mount bracket that attatches to the frame, and weld in a plate for strength.
Frame should look similar to this after it has been cleaned up, and motor mount plate is welded in place.
Decide if you are bolting hanger in stock location, or 1" forward.
Bolt front hanger on (note where arrows are in photos) and mark areas where you need to sand before welding.
Re-bolt hanger on in same position as dedcided before (stock location, or 1" forward). Tack weld on, and weld hanger to frame and front crossmember.
Finish welding hanger in place.
Using frame tube jigs (make note of right hand (passenger side), and left hand (drivers side)), place the jig inside the body mount, and all the way forward as shown in picture of passenger side.
Cut holes with either plasma cutter or torch, until frame tubes fit nicely.
Align both holes, and weld frame tubes in place.
Install leaf spring on the front. (note where the 4 washers are (one on each outer side of the hanger, and one on each side between hanger and springs))
Bolt springs to shackles, and shackles to frame tube using 18mm x 150 bolts and nylocks. (note how the shackles are long side up, and facing forward.)
Use UHMW spacers between shackles and leaf springs.
Bolt axle on using u-bolts and plates. (Note larger u-bolt and offset plate for passenger side. 84-85 axle will require square u-bolts on driver side for proper fit)
Install new high steer arms, tie rod, and draglink. (2 hole arm on passenger side (outer hole for draglink to pitman arm, inner hole for tie rod))
Set tie rod toe in and draglink, and tighten all jam nuts.
Have a local driveline shop make a new driveline, and install.
Tighten all bolts, and torque.
Install tires and wheels, torque lug nuts, and place vehicle back on the ground at ride height.
Hook negative battery terminal back up.
Install shock hoops while shocks are bolted to the shock hoops and the axle. Tack weld in and check side to side for same placement.
Weld shock hoops in place, and use the provided shock hoop gusset as show in picture, and install provided shock hoop tube caps.
Hook up brake lines and bleed system.
Go wheeling.
Re-torque all bolts after 100 miles.
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